TUNING 101
The Basics That Matter. One pair of skis. Keep them sharp, smooth, waxed. Repeat.
WHO THIS IS FOR
Athletes with one pair of skis used for both GS and SL. Future Stars, Dev Team, most U12, even some U14+ who are training-focused. Anyone learning to take ownership of their gear.
You'll learn: When to tune, how to check sharpness, basic edge work, simple base repairs, hot waxing, and when to hand skis to a pro.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
A proper tuning setup with a good vise costs around $225-250. You can't cut corners on the vise - it's the foundation of safe, effective tuning.
We recommend starting with a complete kit rather than piecing together individual tools. Here's what works:
RECOMMENDED: RACEWAX COMPLETE KIT
RaceWax Diamond Ski Tuning Kit with World Cup Vise
Price: ~$225
Link: racewax.com/products/zb-5518
What's included:
World Cup All Metal Ski Vise (heavy-duty, adjustable, worth the investment)
1000W RaceWax wax iron with adjustable temp (120V)
Swix Side Bevel File Edger Tool (2° and 1° settings)
Swiss-made ICECUT metal file
600-grit diamond file
Swix grey gummi stone
Universal wax (120g Toko or 60g Swix)
5mm plexi scraper
Metal scraper with sleeve
Clear and black P-tex sticks
Brass file cleaning brush
Two brake retainers
Nylon brush for base polishing
Large tool bag with multiple pockets
What's NOT included (add these):
Kevlar gloves - Protect your hands when filing edges (~$15-20)
Base cleaner - Swix or Holmenkol (~$12-18)
Total investment: ~$250-265 for complete setup
This kit has everything you need in one package. If you bought each piece separately, you'd spend $350-400+. The vise alone is worth $100-120.
THE PROCESS
Goal: Sharp edges. Smooth bases. Good wax.
1. CHECK FOR BURRS
What's a burr? Metal curl on your edge from skiing firm snow, hitting rocks, or general use.
Check: Run your finger along both edges. Feel anything catching? That's a burr.
Fix: File in 2° guide for side edge, 1° for base edge. Few passes until smooth. Finish with gummy stone.
2. CHECK SHARPNESS
Fingernail test: Drag your nail across the edge (perpendicular). If it scrapes away a bit of nail, you're sharp. If not, sharpen.
How often: Every 3-4 ski days. More if racing or icy conditions.
3. SHARPEN EDGES
Need: Fine file followed by diamond stone + 2° guide + kevlar gloves
How:
Put brake retainers on to hold brakes out of the way
Secure ski in vise
Put on kevlar gloves - edges are sharp, protect your hands
File/stone in guide, tip to tail ONLY - smooth, overlapping strokes in one direction. Lift and reset at tip for each pass. Never drag back tail to tip. Be sure not to over-pressure the file as this can work-harden the edges (makes most filing impossible, tough to undo) - light and consistent pressure will do.
3-5 passes per edge
De-burr with a couple of diamond stone passes per edge.
Finish with gummy stone
Parent tip: Let your athlete do this. They'll learn faster.
4. FIX BASE DAMAGE
Small gouges happen.
Need: P-tex candle, lighter, metal scraper
How:
Clean damaged area (may need to be gound out to hold the P-tex)
Light P-tex, let it drip in (smolder, don't flame)
Overfill slightly
Cool 10-15 minutes
Scrape flat
Deep gouges near edges? Take it to a shop.
5. HOT WAX
Why: Fast bases. Better glide. Protection.
How often: Every 3-4 ski days, when bases look dry/white, or major swings in air/snow temp.
Need: All-temp wax, iron, scraper, nylon brush
Set your iron temp:
Most all-temp waxes: 250-275°F (120-135°C) but consult the label of your wax
Wax should melt smoothly but NOT smoke
If smoking = too hot, turn it down
How:
Clean bases with base cleaner (remove old wax and dirt - no need to do this every time as it dries out the base if done too often)
Drip wax onto base - a thin line of drippings from tip to tail (don't overdo it)
Iron the wax in: Keep the iron moving constantly - glide smoothly in both directions, overlapping slightly. Unlike filing, you can move the iron tip-to-tail or tail-to-tip - just keep it moving.
Never let iron sit still - sitting = burned/damaged base (expensive mistake)
You're done when: Entire base has a smooth, melted layer of wax (no dry spots, no excessive puddles)
Let cool completely - 20-30 minutes minimum (don't rush this!)
Scrape excess wax with plastic scraper - firm, consistent pressure, tip to tail
Brush base with nylon brush to bring out structure
How much wax? Thin layer. You'll scrape most of it off anyway. Better to do multiple thin coats than one thick one.
Pro tip: You can't over-wax. If you're not sure you did it right, let it cool and do another layer. Also, depending on your set up and style, it may behoove you to painters-tape the sidewalls so any wax overrun on the sides is easy to clean up at the end.
VIDEO HELP
WHEN TO GO PRO
Hand your skis to a shop when:
Bases badly damaged (core shots, major gouges)
Edges severely damaged, work-hardened, or need re-beveling
Need full stone grind
Prepping new skis for first time (fresh out of the wrapper ≠ ready to go in 99.9% of cases)
You're not sure what's wrong
Prepping for a high stakes race where every little bit might count
Local shops: Alpine Ski Shop, The Ski Center (both offer LMRT pricing)
TIPS THAT MATTER
✓ Always wear kevlar gloves when working with edges - they're sharp, we’ve seen our fair share of ER trips and stitches from an unexpected slip
✓ Practice on old/rock skis first
✓ Let your athlete do this (even if slower)
✓ Ventilate your space (wax smoke) and wear a face mask when waxing (KN95 or better)
✓ Put down a floor covering, especially if doing this at a hotel
✓ Don't rush, especially when learning
✓ Tune every 3-4 ski days — consistency prevents problems
✓ Always strap your skis when not in use, whether tuned or not
READY TO LEVEL UP?
Once your athlete has separate GS/SL skis and is chasing State Championships or FIS points, check out Tuning 201 (coming soon) for advanced bevels, race wax, and race-day optimization.